- 1985 kawasaki 454 ltd en450 a engine starting starter motor -dc 12v tested good - $35.00. LITTLE DOG MOTO 1985 KAWASAKI 454 LTD EN450 A ENGINE STARTING STARTER MOTOR -DC 12V tested good This starter is in very good condition and shows normal signs of wear.
- 1985 Kawasaki 454 LTD. It's very difficult to get started. Here is what it's like to start this bike cold. The battery sounds weak. I feel guilty about using the.
This is a subreddit for posing questions (or simple DIY solutions) centered around the mechanics of your motorcycle. For general motorcycle discussion, please go to-Rules-Rule #1For the love of all that's sacred, please put the YEAR, MAKE, AND MODEL of your cycle in the title of your post.Rule #2-Links-when you need a miracle. An altruistic place for friends in need. No spamming please, keep it real.if you don't like the answers you get in Fixxit.-Filter. I don't want to go too far into the story of this bike. I bought it a couple months ago and it's been hard to start since then. Once it starts it runs great.Two weeks ago I killed the brushes on the starter.
Re: 454 TBI truck backfires on cold start for about 30 seconds. Sounds good, be wary of buying and 'throwing parts' at the problem. Keep your money in your pocket, there is a way to troubleshoot everything on your motor with enough patience you'll get to the bottom of the problem. There's a lot of smart people on this site.
I asked for help and you guys helped me diagnose and fix the problem.Well it looks like I caused a secondary problem. You see, I thought I could just push start the bike as much as I wanted as opposed to only doing that in an emergency situation. When that stopped working is when I first started asking for a lot of help on.After some googling I think I messed up the starter clutch from all the push starting I did.
Maybe it's the carburetor or the spark plugs but neither of those has been messed with too much.Here's a of me trying to start it. The engine doesn't cough (like it sounds like it's about to start) in that video but every start sounds almost promising. That is, it's not just the winding of the alternator but more like a wind, wind, wind, wind, cough, wind, wind, cough, cough, wind. in the video i meant (part 16126) not valve seal.
Where to begin.First off, never again put a meter lead on a spark plug wire. I have no idea why that meter didn't stop working forever. You are hitting the meter with 30,000 volts when it's probably not designed to measure over 1000 volts. You check for spark using a spark plug, or one of these: and a video how to use it is here:Second, Your starter clutch is fine. It's allowing the starter to turn the engine over. That's the first function.
The second function comes into play when the engine starts, and you haven't gotten there yet. IT allows the engine to run without the engine driving the starter motor. The thing you see moving in that window is the flywheel, and it's connected to the crankshaft, so it's going to spin whenever the engine is turning over to start or when it's running.
Cover that hole up. Your problem isn't there.Third, the little philips head screw on your carburetor is a drain to empty your carburetor float bowls for winter storage, or to set the float height. It's not going to help you start the engine, although the fact gas is coming out of it is a good sign that that carb, at least, is getting fuel. But, tighten it down and leave it.Fourth, and this part scares me, is how do you know the left carb needs a vacuum diaphragm (as they're more commonly called)? Good on your for being able to repair your starter motor and get it back together so it turns the engine over, but it's very easy to screw up a carburetor without even knowing it if you don't know what you're doing.You need to get a socket for your spark plug, they need to come out to see if they're wet, or fouled, or even have a proper gap.I could go on forever, but go and start reading.
You could go straight to chapter 13, 'Trouble Shooting a Bike that Will Not Start,' but you'd be doing yourself a favor by starting at the beginning and reading everything.Good luck, man. I know you're trying and I commend you for that, but I saw so many things in just that short video that made me cringe. I don't know where you live, but if you live anywhere near Syracuse, NY, I could probably help you get that running in short order. I've repaired bikes professionally (and in fact am a very busy industrial electrician/mechanic,) and was a service manager at a Kawasaki dealer for a while. I've been repairing motorcycles on and off for over 45 years, since I was 13, and fixing mowers and chains saw even before that. I know what I'm doing and if I come across something I don't know, I'll find out and won't bullshit you in the meantime. For example, the guy who asked about valve adjustment is not wrong, he's just jumped too far ahead.
The fundamentals of a viable engine are fuel, compression, and spark. It seems like you have all 3, so it's probably something relatively minor preventing you from getting started. The leak you point to at the screw near the bottom of the carb is the drain tap, for draining the carb of either it's petrol or any water that might have collected in it over time.
The little port-hole you show with the moving part inside, is the flywheel that contains the 'stator' that generates the 12volt current used to run stuff and keep the battery charged up. The starter clutch must be working or the engine would not be turning when you press the starter button. It is located between the starter and the back of the flywheel. Your engine sounds to me as if is lacking in compression, because it spins too freely on the starter, without those slowing down moments as the compression reacts to the starter's rotation.
This is not the end of the world. You need to lift the nice shiny covers off the tops of each engine barrel to give you access to the valves and valve-gear. You need to get the correct clearances from your service manual or the internet and adjust your valve gaps. The exhaust gaps are always a tiny bit wider than the inlet gaps. You rotate the engine by hand until the valve you want to adjust has gone past it's pressing action and come back up. Turn the engine a tiny bit further, just to make sure and then try to slide your 'feeler guage' strip into the bit between the lever that presses onto the valve top and the valve itself.
I expect there is no gap at all at the moment, so loosen the lock-nut and unwind the centre bolt, then slide in the guage and adjust things to give a friction fit. Not too tight to slide but enough to slightly grip the guage as you move it. When retightening the lock-nut, only nip it tight or you WILL strip the very delicate threads! You can buy a 'feeler guage' from your local parts supplier. It needs to show both METRIC and IMPERIAL sizes on the blades as your bike will be made with METRIC nuts, bolts and measurements. Once you have gone through this process with each valve, rotate the engine a few turns by hand and just recheck your handiwork before refitting the covers. To check for a spark, your tester isn't the tool for the job.
1985 454ltd Cold Starting Schedule
Get a cross-head screw-driver that fits up the spark-plug cap and hold it near the engine block about the distance of the thickness of a cigarette packet's cardboard. Use the plastic insulated handle, not the metal to hold it in place, then spin the motor on the starter as if you wanted to start the engine. You will see a tiny blue/pink/yellow spark!
The fact it runs tells you there isn't much wrong with it, so get the valves adjusted and see if it starts up on the button. In warm weather, you don't need much choke to start the engine, but a little bit of throttle might be needed to encourage it to light up. With an older engine, it might need a little bit more winding to get it to catch, too.
Don't be too scared to use the starter. If you have genuine concerns, touch the starter's casing between each attempt to see if it is hot. Warm is normal, but hot means it needs a break. There you go, more flippin' work!. Google Kawasaki 454 ltd valve adjustment.
Hard cold starts are the first sign they're out of adjustment.I used to own a 454 (1986). The valve clearance needs adjusted on them frequently. If they're too tight, which is what happens with age and miles, they will keep the valves open and you won't have any compression.
1985 454ltd Cold Starting Problems
This makes the bike super hard to start.Like I said, hard cold starts but running well when warm is a classic sign of valve adjustment on the edge. I own a shop and that is the first thing I would look at given those symptoms on this bike.